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La Paz, the capital of the Mexican state of Baja California Sur, overlooks a vast bay on the Sea of Cortez, boasting stunning white sandy beaches.
Very little is known about the history of its inhabitants. The Baja California peninsula has been inhabited for over twelve thousand years by various populations, but the only remnants of their presence are the beautifully preserved rock paintings.
The few historical facts we do know tell us that in the 16th century, semi-nomadic fishing tribes—Cochimí, Guaycura, and Pericú—lived on the peninsula. During the same period, the bay of La Paz became a haven for notorious pirates, who used it as a base to ambush galleons stopping there to replenish their water supplies.
The conquistador Hernán Cortés, inspired by fantastical tales such as those in the Spanish epic poem Las Sergas de Esplandián, which spoke of a sea brimming with pearls and Amazons clad in gold, organised the first voyage to these lands in 1533, sending two ships. Only one arrived, and it met with little success.
When the crew of the Concepción landed in the bay, they were greeted by the Guaycura, the peaceful indigenous community living in the area. The Spaniards, noticing the large pearls the natives harvested from the bay’s oysters, wasted no time in pillaging their villages and assaulting their women.
Although the Guaycura were peaceful, they were skilled with bows and arrows and retaliated against the aggression, killing the invaders one by one. The few survivors who managed to return to the ship fled. Frustrated by the mission’s failure, Cortés decided to personally lead a second expedition, arriving in the same bay on 3 May 1535 and naming it Santa Cruz.
However, two years later, he abandoned the colony he had founded, overwhelmed by the harshness of the terrain and the hostility of the natives, who had not forgotten the conquistadors’ brutality. Finally, in 1596, Sebastián Vizcaíno landed in the bay once more, renaming it La Paz and establishing a permanent colony.
The Spaniards quickly recognised the wealth of pearls in these waters, exploiting them intensively until the natural oyster population was nearly depleted. In 1720, Jesuit missionaries founded the Mission of Our Lady of the Pillar of La Paz Airapí, and in 1974, the territory was officially established as a state.
Since then, this place has changed very little, and the legends of pirates continue to be passed down, attracting treasure hunters of varying degrees of seriousness.
Imagine a place suspended in time, with starry skies and striking contrasts: deserts where ancient cacti grow slowly and enchanting white sandy beaches that separate the land from the sea, creating postcard-perfect landscapes. The bay of La Paz in Baja California is known for all this, as well as for the tranquillity of its turquoise waters, its natural beauty, and its spectacular sunsets. Within its waters lies a protected marine park of extraordinary beauty, Espíritu Santo Island.
The city of La Paz itself is characterised by its serenity and calm, as if its name has imbued it with a unique personality. Perhaps for this reason, over time, it has become a sought-after destination for those looking to start a new life or simply enjoy a holiday. The hospitality and warmth of its people, the paceños, make this port a welcoming and peaceful place.
At the beginning of the Malecón, however, perhaps to keep alive the legendary history of corsairs and their treasures, there is an arch with the inscription: “Welcome to La Paz, the port of illusions.” A message that, even today, seems to serve as a warning to those who take the idea of migrating here lightly.
The Most Beautiful Beaches
La Paz, like the rest of Baja California, boasts stunning beaches.
El Coromuel is one of the closest beaches to the city, equipped with all the necessary amenities to enjoy a day out. It is particularly popular with locals, especially on weekends.
Another famous beach—undoubtedly one of the most beautiful—is El Tesoro, located along the road leading to the port of Pichilingue. Sheltered from the wind, it maintains shallow waters and calm waves, making it perfect for children.
Playa Balandra and El Tecolote
Balandra and El Tecolote beaches are among the most visited and renowned in Mexico.
Balandra captivates visitors with the colours of its waters, which display every possible shade of blue and turquoise, and its fine white sandy beach. Here, you’ll find a peculiar and imposing stone mushroom, sculpted by water erosion, which has become a symbol of La Paz. It’s an excellent spot to enjoy nature, such as kayaking through its mangroves. However, it has become quite crowded in recent years, especially during the summer season.
El Tecolote is a long white sandy beach offering entertainment and leisure facilities. It is undoubtedly the most frequented beach by swimmers and water sports enthusiasts. Fortunately, its length ensures it never feels overly crowded. In summer, it’s delightful to arrive early in the morning, when the beach is still animated only by wildlife. Gazing at the crystal-clear waters, you might be surprised by sardines leaping from the water, chased by dorados, or by the acrobatics of a mobula ray enjoying its morning stretch.
For lunch, you can savour tacos and seafood (mariscos), accompanied by a refreshing Mexican beer, at a palapa overlooking the sea. After lunch, you can relax and enjoy the pleasant breeze that rises in the early afternoon. In winter, however, the beach is often windy and not always accessible.
Espíritu Santo Island
Just 25 km from La Paz in a straight line, Espíritu Santo Island is the closest to the bay and the most beautiful of all the islands in the Sea of Cortez.
It is a protected natural area, an enchanted realm of biodiversity. The only creatures that can truly claim this land as their own are sea lions, rays, dolphins, turtles, and, at certain times of the year, grey whales and hammerhead sharks. The striking contrasts between the reddish hues of its volcanic rocks, the turquoise blue of its waters, and its dazzling sunsets create an extraordinary landscape.
The island consists of two main landmasses: Espíritu Santo, which gives the group its name, and La Partida, which is nearly five times smaller. Three islets lie off the western side of the main island: La Ballena, El Gallo, and La Gallina, along with four rocky promontories known as Los Islotes.
This cluster of islands and islets attracts an increasing number of tourists, drawn by the opportunity to enjoy nature with minimal human impact. On the island, you can engage in various activities, including snorkelling or diving with sea lions, trekking along trails winding through small pink rock canyons, camping under the stars on secluded beaches, or exploring by kayak or boat.
Climate
Winter is mild, bringing cool winds with minimum temperatures of 10–12°C. However, during the day and throughout the year—except for the summer months—the climate is spring-like and very pleasant. Rainfall is almost non-existent, concentrated only in September, and the climate is dry.
Summer retains the characteristics of a desert climate: dry and very hot, with maximum temperatures exceeding 40°C. However, in the summer afternoons, as the sun sets and ignites the bay with fiery colours, a gentle and refreshing wind called El Coromuel rises from the southeast, offering relief and a break from the day’s heat.